In the history of trade, silk is the only material to have acquired such a mystique, an aura of luxury and value around it that a whole complex of trade routes was named after it – the silk route. Mere mention of silk evokes in mind luxury, romanticism and fabled wealth associated with it. Since time immemorial, ours being one of the major trading country, was connected to the main silk route (connecting China to Europe ) through number of feeder routes originating from the trade centre situated in north India. These routes had been passing through one of the most arduous mountainous high altitude region of the world before reaching these destinations in Central Asia.
I am fortunate to had the opportunity to stay along these routes and travel extensively in Ladakh part of this complex. Since ancient times countless travellers, intrepid explorers and pilgrims have traversed through these routes exchanging goods, culture and ideas. Main branch of routes connecting north Indian territory of Ladakh with central Asia had been privy to many court intrigues in the past and in recent past ‘great Game’ was played which shaped the relations between the countries of the region. Since I have experienced the difficulties inherent in these routes and recounting these routes is a journey down the memory lane. Due to constraints of space, this narrative is confined to Ladakh region only.
Oldest available record of trade between Ladakh and central Asia are Sogdian and Arabic inscriptions of 1st century AD found at Tangtse Ladakh,which is the testimony of trade relations with central Asian bazaars. Over a period, Leh emerged as a hub from where many trade routes radiated. Two main routes originating from Amritsar or Hoshiarpur, one after crossing Zoji la via Srinagar and another via Kullu converged at Leh. During winter journey from Leh to Yarkand was undertaken along the frozen Shyok River. In summer to avoid the swollen Shyok River difficult route via Khardung La, Saser La and Chongtash was preferred. Considering the profit margin, apart from local traders it attracted traders from as far as Hoshiarpur in Punjab. Based mainly on barter system main items carried from Leh to Yarkand were cotton piece goods, silk mostly European, skin and leather, tea, spice, indigo and bullions. Whereas from Yarkand mainly raw silk, felts (Namdas), carpets, torquise, gold dust and Charas was traded. There were three main entrepot on trans Karakoram trade, Yarkand, Leh and Hoshiarpur. Distant Hoshiarpur emerged as enterpot for distribution of Charas in north India..On reaching their destinations Indian traders in Yarkand were accommodated in “Hind Sarai” and in Leh Yarkandi Sarai behind the church was boarding place for Yarkandis . Caravans from Amritsar or Hoshiarpur after reaching at Leh had to equip themselves to undertake the long and treacherous journey to Yarkand. Preparations were carried out days well in advance of the journey. Goods are collected, horses and ponies are hired, saddlery and other equipments are repaired, load adjusted, ration and fodder for animals was arranged. Abuzz with activities it was not difficult to make out; about the impending big event which need to be meticulously organized for successful journey. Trade from Leh to Yarkand was mainly carried out by the hardy Arghon traders, offshoots of mixed marriages between Yarkandi traders and local women. They remained mainstay of trans Korakoram trade for years. Many Hoshiarpuris settled in Leh were also partaker of lucrative trade with central Asia.
I am fortunate to had the opportunity to stay along these routes and travel extensively in Ladakh part of this complex. Since ancient times countless travellers, intrepid explorers and pilgrims have traversed through these routes exchanging goods, culture and ideas. Main branch of routes connecting north Indian territory of Ladakh with central Asia had been privy to many court intrigues in the past and in recent past ‘great Game’ was played which shaped the relations between the countries of the region. Since I have experienced the difficulties inherent in these routes and recounting these routes is a journey down the memory lane. Due to constraints of space, this narrative is confined to Ladakh region only.
Oldest available record of trade between Ladakh and central Asia are Sogdian and Arabic inscriptions of 1st century AD found at Tangtse Ladakh,which is the testimony of trade relations with central Asian bazaars. Over a period, Leh emerged as a hub from where many trade routes radiated. Two main routes originating from Amritsar or Hoshiarpur, one after crossing Zoji la via Srinagar and another via Kullu converged at Leh. During winter journey from Leh to Yarkand was undertaken along the frozen Shyok River. In summer to avoid the swollen Shyok River difficult route via Khardung La, Saser La and Chongtash was preferred. Considering the profit margin, apart from local traders it attracted traders from as far as Hoshiarpur in Punjab. Based mainly on barter system main items carried from Leh to Yarkand were cotton piece goods, silk mostly European, skin and leather, tea, spice, indigo and bullions. Whereas from Yarkand mainly raw silk, felts (Namdas), carpets, torquise, gold dust and Charas was traded. There were three main entrepot on trans Karakoram trade, Yarkand, Leh and Hoshiarpur. Distant Hoshiarpur emerged as enterpot for distribution of Charas in north India..On reaching their destinations Indian traders in Yarkand were accommodated in “Hind Sarai” and in Leh Yarkandi Sarai behind the church was boarding place for Yarkandis . Caravans from Amritsar or Hoshiarpur after reaching at Leh had to equip themselves to undertake the long and treacherous journey to Yarkand. Preparations were carried out days well in advance of the journey. Goods are collected, horses and ponies are hired, saddlery and other equipments are repaired, load adjusted, ration and fodder for animals was arranged. Abuzz with activities it was not difficult to make out; about the impending big event which need to be meticulously organized for successful journey. Trade from Leh to Yarkand was mainly carried out by the hardy Arghon traders, offshoots of mixed marriages between Yarkandi traders and local women. They remained mainstay of trans Korakoram trade for years. Many Hoshiarpuris settled in Leh were also partaker of lucrative trade with central Asia.
The first obstacle on summer route was Khardung La on a Ladakh range and an opening to Nubra valley .To negotiate the glaciated part of it, often they had to transfer loads from horses to yaks specially hired from neighboring villages of Ganglas and Khardung. After crossing the La going down from the Polu to reach grasslands of Sasoma and Panamik , Shyok was forded at a place where it was divided into many streams. On reaching Panamik three four days rest was taken to prepare for the journey on the most difficult stretch of Leh -Yarkand route. Panamik was also the last habitat where fodder for animal was available. After leaving Panamik steep climb from Sasoma starts, caravan had to negotiate 56 bends before they could finally reach at Tirumpati La or Karawal Dawan in Yarkandi. To weary travelers and animals flat feature of Lama Kheti offer much needed respite before preparing to cross the Saser La.I have spent many sleepless nights after traversing the 56 bends . During one of the stay while sleeping in a small tent ,in the morning I put my weight of body on one hand to take glass of tea from my helper . To my horror a hand yanked up due to pressure of the palm on the ground it was really horrible ,later on I learnt I was sleeping on a shallow grave of some unfortunate traveller who was hastily put to rest in a shallow grave. These area abound in dead bodies of animals and travellers most of the human bodies are put to rest but animal bones are in abundance .Track to Saser La is glaciated and scree strewn which make negotiating Saser La so difficult. Travelers recount tales of treacherous journey and extreme hazardous conditions while crossing it, It was difficult for pack animals as well , Climb from 450 metres to 5328 metres is a massive strain which could rupture veins of peck animals and screes would cut there fetlocks . Saser Brangsa was the next halt. A sarai built there for the purpose of halt is in ruins now.It was our tea point after crossing the La. After coming down from Saser Brangsa, Shyok had to be forded once again. Men known as Kishtipa (Boatmen) were stationed there to help caravans to cross the river. This route converges at Chungtash with the winter route coming along the shyok river from Tangtse. Winter route was longer but relatively easier trail .Starting from Leh then crossing Chang La , starting from Shyok village near Tangtse caravan had to follow Shyok River. During winter with less water and frozen surface crossing is easier. They had to cross and re-cross it number of times before reaching Chungtash.
Names of places reveals its distant connections. Chungtash is a Turkish language word meaning big stone. After halting near a water source called Murgo, it would take three days to reach Dapsang plain. Route to Dapsang plains passes from Burtsa- a name derived from Burtsa shrub found in abundance in the area, and Kazi Langer ,langar means heaps of stones. Dapsang plain is a plateau of height above 5400 mtr, notorious for high velocity wind and lack of oxygen which could cause breathlessness.Heaps of bones of dead animals along the route which also act as path finders demonstrate hardship associated with the journey. At the end of the plain is Chip Chap River which could be easily forded.After Halting for a night at Daulat Beg Oldi where a yarkandi trader of the name died..This area also known as DBO is dotted with mud dwellings for travellers are of inverted pitcher shape which are for protection against high velocity wind and cold.After travelling along the boulder strewn path ,caravan had to climb a steep ascent to reach Karakoram Pass .A big sounding name but unimpressive feature its micro climate does not allow snow accumulation but steep ascent and cold had notoriously taken number of causalities. After crossing the KK pass caravans could follow relatively easier track till Suget Dawan after that shahidulla where Maharaja Ranjit Singh built his northen most outpost, it was relatively easier affair to reach Yarkand.
Names of places reveals its distant connections. Chungtash is a Turkish language word meaning big stone. After halting near a water source called Murgo, it would take three days to reach Dapsang plain. Route to Dapsang plains passes from Burtsa- a name derived from Burtsa shrub found in abundance in the area, and Kazi Langer ,langar means heaps of stones. Dapsang plain is a plateau of height above 5400 mtr, notorious for high velocity wind and lack of oxygen which could cause breathlessness.Heaps of bones of dead animals along the route which also act as path finders demonstrate hardship associated with the journey. At the end of the plain is Chip Chap River which could be easily forded.After Halting for a night at Daulat Beg Oldi where a yarkandi trader of the name died..This area also known as DBO is dotted with mud dwellings for travellers are of inverted pitcher shape which are for protection against high velocity wind and cold.After travelling along the boulder strewn path ,caravan had to climb a steep ascent to reach Karakoram Pass .A big sounding name but unimpressive feature its micro climate does not allow snow accumulation but steep ascent and cold had notoriously taken number of causalities. After crossing the KK pass caravans could follow relatively easier track till Suget Dawan after that shahidulla where Maharaja Ranjit Singh built his northen most outpost, it was relatively easier affair to reach Yarkand.
Trans Karakoram trade continued till the advent of communism in China. From 1949 onwards, it was difficult for Indian merchants to stay in Yarkand. Few Indians continued to stay there suffering heavily in trade. Unable to sustain further they started leaving Yarkand. Last batch of Indians traders including few Hoshiarpuris crossed over from Karakoram in the winter of 1951. With this saga of trans Karakoram trade came to an end. Unfortunately their narratives an interesting piece of silk route romanticism are not properly preserved. Except few Ladakh watchers no one has documented it. Many of the Arghons and Kirayakash (pony drivers) were witness to many macabre incidents on the route which left trails of bones along the silk route are no more. Their narratives lost in the sand of time .I have sojourned on the settlements along these routes, for me these are the cherished memories for life. With development of roads and coming of motor vehicles many of these places lost their significance. But legacy of mystique and romance associated with the silk route will remain forever. I am blessed to have been a part of it.
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