MY SILK ROUTE CONNECTIONS

In the history of trade, silk is the only material to have acquired such a mystique, an aura of luxury and value around it that a whole complex of trade routes was named after it – the silk route. Mere mention of silk evokes in mind luxury, romanticism and fabled wealth associated with it. Since time immemorial, ours being one of the major trading country, was connected to the main silk route (connecting China to Europe ) through number of feeder routes originating from the trade centre situated in north India. These routes had been passing through one of the most arduous mountainous high altitude region of the world before reaching these destinations in Central Asia.
I am fortunate to had the opportunity to stay along these routes and travel extensively in Ladakh part of this complex. Since ancient times countless travellers, intrepid explorers and pilgrims have traversed through these routes exchanging goods, culture and ideas. Main branch of routes connecting north Indian territory of Ladakh with central Asia had been privy to many court intrigues in the past and in recent past ‘great Game’ was played which shaped the relations between the countries of the region. Since I have experienced the difficulties inherent in these routes and recounting these routes is a journey down the memory lane. Due to constraints of space, this narrative is confined to Ladakh region only.
Oldest available record of trade between Ladakh and central Asia are Sogdian and Arabic inscriptions of 1st century AD found at Tangtse Ladakh,which is the testimony of trade relations with central Asian bazaars. Over a period, Leh emerged as a hub from where many trade routes radiated. Two main routes originating from Amritsar or Hoshiarpur, one after crossing Zoji la via Srinagar and another via Kullu converged at Leh. During winter journey from Leh to Yarkand was undertaken along the frozen Shyok River. In summer to avoid the swollen Shyok River difficult route via Khardung La, Saser La and Chongtash was preferred. Considering the profit margin, apart from local traders it attracted traders from as far as Hoshiarpur in Punjab. Based mainly on barter system main items carried from Leh to Yarkand were cotton piece goods, silk mostly European, skin and leather, tea, spice, indigo and bullions. Whereas from Yarkand mainly raw silk, felts (Namdas), carpets, torquise, gold dust and Charas was traded. There were three main entrepot on trans Karakoram trade, Yarkand, Leh and Hoshiarpur. Distant Hoshiarpur emerged as enterpot for distribution of Charas in north India..On reaching their destinations Indian traders in Yarkand were accommodated in “Hind Sarai” and in Leh Yarkandi Sarai behind the church was boarding place for Yarkandis . Caravans from Amritsar or Hoshiarpur after reaching at Leh had to equip themselves to undertake the long and treacherous journey to Yarkand. Preparations were carried out days well in advance of the journey. Goods are collected, horses and ponies are hired, saddlery and other equipments are repaired, load adjusted, ration and fodder for animals was arranged. Abuzz with activities it was not difficult to make out; about the impending big event which need to be meticulously organized for successful journey. Trade from Leh to Yarkand was mainly carried out by the hardy Arghon traders, offshoots of mixed marriages between Yarkandi traders and local women. They remained mainstay of trans Korakoram trade for years. Many Hoshiarpuris settled in Leh were also partaker of lucrative trade with central Asia.

The first obstacle on summer route was Khardung La on a Ladakh range and an opening to Nubra valley .To negotiate the glaciated part of it, often they had to transfer loads from horses to yaks specially hired from neighboring villages of Ganglas and Khardung. After crossing the La going down from the Polu to reach grasslands of Sasoma and Panamik , Shyok was forded at a place where it was divided into many streams. On reaching Panamik three four days rest was taken to prepare for the journey on the most difficult stretch of Leh -Yarkand route. Panamik was also the last habitat where fodder for animal was available. After leaving Panamik steep climb from Sasoma starts, caravan had to negotiate 56 bends before they could finally reach at Tirumpati La or Karawal Dawan in Yarkandi. To weary travelers and animals flat feature of Lama Kheti offer much needed respite before preparing to cross the Saser La.I have spent many sleepless nights after traversing the 56 bends . During one of the stay while sleeping in a small tent ,in the morning I put my weight of body on one hand to take glass of tea from my helper . To my horror a hand yanked up due to pressure of the palm on the ground it was really horrible ,later on I learnt I was sleeping on a shallow grave of some unfortunate traveller who was hastily put to rest in a shallow grave. These area abound in dead bodies of animals and travellers most of the human bodies are put to rest but animal bones are in abundance .Track to Saser La is glaciated and scree strewn which make negotiating Saser La so difficult. Travelers recount tales of treacherous journey and extreme hazardous conditions while crossing it, It was difficult for pack animals as well , Climb from 450 metres to 5328 metres is a massive strain which could rupture veins of peck animals and screes would cut there fetlocks . Saser Brangsa was the next halt. A sarai built there for the purpose of halt is in ruins now.It was our tea point after crossing the La. After coming down from Saser Brangsa, Shyok had to be forded once again. Men known as Kishtipa (Boatmen) were stationed there to help caravans to cross the river. This route converges at Chungtash with the winter route coming along the shyok river from Tangtse. Winter route was longer but relatively easier trail .Starting from Leh then crossing Chang La , starting from Shyok village near Tangtse caravan had to follow Shyok River. During winter with less water and frozen surface crossing is easier. They had to cross and re-cross it number of times before reaching Chungtash.
Names of places reveals its distant connections. Chungtash is a Turkish language word meaning big stone. After halting near a water source called Murgo, it would take three days to reach Dapsang plain. Route to Dapsang plains passes from Burtsa- a name derived from Burtsa shrub found in abundance in the area, and Kazi Langer ,langar means heaps of stones. Dapsang plain is a plateau of height above 5400 mtr, notorious for high velocity wind and lack of oxygen which could cause breathlessness.Heaps of bones of dead animals along the route which also act as path finders demonstrate hardship associated with the journey. At the end of the plain is Chip Chap River which could be easily forded.After Halting for a night at Daulat Beg Oldi where a yarkandi trader of the name died..This area also known as DBO is dotted with mud dwellings for travellers are of inverted pitcher shape which are for protection against high velocity wind and cold.After travelling along the boulder strewn path ,caravan had to climb a steep ascent to reach Karakoram Pass .A big sounding name but unimpressive feature its micro climate does not allow snow accumulation but steep ascent and cold had notoriously taken number of causalities. After crossing the KK pass caravans could follow relatively easier track till Suget Dawan after that shahidulla where Maharaja Ranjit Singh built his northen most outpost, it was relatively easier affair to reach Yarkand.

Trans Karakoram trade continued till the advent of communism in China. From 1949 onwards, it was difficult for Indian merchants to stay in Yarkand. Few Indians continued to stay there suffering heavily in trade. Unable to sustain further they started leaving Yarkand. Last batch of Indians traders including few Hoshiarpuris crossed over from Karakoram in the winter of 1951. With this saga of trans Karakoram trade came to an end. Unfortunately their narratives an interesting piece of silk route romanticism are not properly preserved. Except few Ladakh watchers no one has documented it. Many of the Arghons and Kirayakash (pony drivers) were witness to many macabre incidents on the route which left trails of bones along the silk route are no more. Their narratives lost in the sand of time .I have sojourned on the settlements along these routes, for me these are the cherished memories for life. With development of roads and coming of motor vehicles many of these places lost their significance. But legacy of mystique and romance associated with the silk route will remain forever. I am blessed to have been a part of it.

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*CHAAM DANCE RUMTEK MONASTRY SIKKIM

The important 'chaam' dance festival of Rumtek near Gangtok are those performed two days prior to the Tibetan New Year and that performed on the 10th day of the fifth month of the Tibetan calendar. This Tse Chu Chaam basically presents the eight manifestations of Padmasambhava.Padmasambhava( the lotus- born) was the Indian sage who consolidated Buddhism in Tibet. He is also revered by the Sikkimese as Guru Rimpoche and during his travels he is suppose to have visited Sikkim. The dances in Rumtek celebrate the various episodes of his life and his battle against the forces of evil. The winter 'chaams' performed just prior to the Losar present the battle between good and evil and the ritualised destruction of evil. Rumtek monastery is 23km from Gangtok and is the seat of karma Kagyu order of Tibetan Buddhism. This monastery was built by the 16th reincarnate Gyalwa Karmapa, after he escaped from Tibet and settled in Sikkim. Presently Rumtek has acquired notoriety due to internecine battle within the order ,since matter is subjudice and to avert conflict between two parties high court has sealed the treasury ,, and deployed ITBP ,about internecine battle which is the story of power play and avarice I will write in next post

~~~~~~~~AFGHAN GIRL ^^^^^^^^

"the First World's Third World Mona Lisa"
Her name is Sherbat Gul . This photograph was taken by Steve McCurry when she was 12 years only at Nasir bagh refugee camp in Pakistan. She took refuge there after her parents were killed in Soviet bombardment . Although her name was not known, her picture, titled Afghan Girl, appeared on the June 1985 cover of National Geographic. The image of her face, with a red scarf draped loosely over her head and her piercing sea-green colored eyes staring directly into the camera, became a symbol both of the 1980s Afghan conflict and of the refugee situation worldwide. The image was named "the most recognized photograph" in the history of the magazine, and the cover itself is one of the most famous of the National Geographic.After her marriage at the age of 16 years she moved to remote village in Afghanistan .In 2012 McCurry visited nasira bagh to meet her again and located her in remote village in Afghanistan Sherbat now mother of 3 girls , remember the moment when the photograph was taken but was unaware of the fame it has generated . See the images taken at different time frame .

``````````The Bridge on the River Drina by Ivo Andric````````````````````````````

 

At Sanski most in Bosnia Herzegovina one of my colleague was leaving for India and as is customery he was presented a coffee table book on Ivo Andric by his Land lady Vera Kurbegovich . He accepted it there in true Indian style very obligingly and full of humility , but after the function in private he was in his true colours fuming on being given a book that is about an unknown Yugoslavian writer and has no decorative value ,so in rage he gave that book to me ,,and lo and behold it opened a new world of Slavic(Serbo Croat) litreture before me . Ivo Andric was the only Yugoslavian author who was honoured with Noble prize in literature . He was honoured for his contribution, the novel "The bridge on the Drina" . Ivo Andric spent his child hood at Vise Grad a small town on the bank of river Drina which devide Austro Hungarian empire from Turkish empire and it is a story of how common people were affected by the bridge . Here bridge act as a connect between two civilizations ,,its role is beautifully described in connecting two peoples and those on the fringes , its 17th century Balkan . Ivo Andric got Noble Prize when cold war was at its peak in 1961 . I vainly searched for this novel at Sarajevo in Bosnia , at Zagreb in Croatia even in Budapest in Hungary , at Vienna but of no avail . In India I tried every where but unbelievably at quite unexpected place, at state library in Shillong while exploring dusty shelves of books which spoiled my hands and shirt I opened one crumbling book and my happiness knew no bounds it was Ivo Andric's magnum opus . I read it once, twice and its dust and silver fishes soiled my hands and clothes but my joy was unbound . I read it mesmerized and I must thank to Vera for such a wonderful gift though indirectly,, I dread at thought that very very worldly friend of mine( He is one of the no. 1 kalakar in managing postings in our Force ) would have sold it to kabadiwala . Vera's gift is my prized possesion .Ivo Andric is master story teller . Its not a very popular book but a marvellous addition to anyones library .You can see photographs of River Drina its Mehmod Pasa Sokolovich bridge and stone house midst of river(made in 1968) . I am fortunate to have visited these places with my family and pray to Bhagwanjee to give me one more chance to see these places once again .

~~~~~~~~~~~Newars(Pradhans) of Sikkim ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

During my stay in Sikkim I came across many illustrious newars .I am indebted to all of them to make my stay memorable and for their love and affection ; specially my Class fellow Smt Ganga Devi Pradhan Director Handicrafts Sikkim and her husband Sh Pratap Pradhan who were great support to me and my wife Rani ;then Sh Dheeraj Pradhan Director Denzong Society Gangtok. Newars are one of the the Nepalis community of Sikkim ,originally from Nepal who migrated to Sikkim around 150 years ago from Kathmandu valley and settled around Silk route to Tibet and mainly in Rhenok , Rigu ,Pandam ,Ranka , Melli, Jorethang, Soreng,Daramdin,Legship Dramdin in East and south west districts of Sikkim . Laksmi Dass Pradhan(Kasju) was the first to come to Sikkim from Kathmandu valley many folklores are floating around about his exploits ,he with his brother Kancha Chandervir established himself as a successful businessman and later on in the service of Sikkim king he excelled. He started mining in south Sikkim and minted for the first time Sikkim coinage . He is believed to have exhorted Newars to discard their castes in preference to the title Pradhan now most of newars have forgotten their original surnames due to the time factor and also due to the fact that they have lost contacts with their relatives in Nepal .Numerically their strength is not much but they have contributed significantly in the development of Sikkim , Newars are occupying important posts in the government as officers, even ministers and many of them are into business , in tourism etc. . Govt. has acknowledged their contribution and named a road in Gangtok after K R Pradhan ;a renowned political figure around the time of Sikkim merger with India . Vigorous efforts are being made to revive Newari language and culture through various Guthis(cultural organisations) or goshtis in diffrent parts of the state .

ROSA LUXEMBURG

On the occasion of International Women's day I searched for a write up on Rosa Luxemburg in media . Sadly no one remember her in the predominately capitalist's driven world of today . She was one of the bravest proponent of Marxist ideology and revolutionary who beleived in the power of masses; her birth day falls on 5th March . I fell for Rosa Luxemburg at that impressionable age when Marxism is panacea for all the ills of the world .Though Marxism as an ideology has failed Arthur Koestler described Marx as a " God That Failed" but it is an excellent intellectual exercise to read Marxism and those who are compulsive reader ;like me who must read something serious every day to remain sane;it gives inexhaustible supply of material . Rosa Luxemburg name itself is soothing in the otherwise dreary world of Marxist philosophers . She was born in Polish Russia in 1871 and at the young age of 22 only; she was an acclaimed Marxist . I read everything about her in available material even saw movie on her life and times (Rosa Luxemburg directed by Margretha Von Tropp) dubbed in English language .She left Warsaw and moved to Berlin there she was active in left wing politics of SDP (German socialist democratic party ) . Her excellent rhetorical skill made her spokesperson for SDP party . She obtained her doctoral degree from university of Zurich . She attacked Revisionism of Bernstein and presented her views as "Social Reform or Revolution"..In her views proletariat power and revolutionary changes in method of production can bring necessary reforms. She was critical of German militarism and predicted WW1 and predicted eastward expansion of Marxism to Russia instead of industrialised Britain and Germany. She had met Lenin and she was opposed to the his centralist policies propounded in the book "What is to be done" . To oppose the war efforts of Germany she started Spartacus league with Karl Liebknecht, Clara Zetkin and Franz Mehring .Her thoughts are described as Dialectics of spontainity and organisation or Luxemburgism.Here spontaneity is a grass route level approach to the organisation for the class struggle .She failed to imbibe "marxist tendencies' in the masses or educate them due to which sizeable portion of SDP party workers remained in contact with bourgeois to defeat the revolution and later on formed the separate party. She lived with Leo Jogiches without caring for social sanctions and eventually married to Gustav Lübeck a German She had developed hip problem at the age of five which left her with a permanent limp . During the imprisonment she was murdered and her body was quietly dumped in a river near Berlin and after three months it was taken out and buried . The version given by the Government was contested by forensic experts as it did not bear resembelance to Rosa Luxemburg, even DNA test was inconclusive. At that place memorial is built and on 5th March masses gather there to remember her.

SADAT HASAN MANTO

After spending a dreary quarter plus century in the fauz mostly in moffussil towns of borderland where you are so lonely that you feel a pressing need for a hiatus before you start the next inning . Sometimes a very tiring ennui sets in ; which gnaws at your entrails and it is so overbearing and encompassing its leave you despondent .A very depressing miliue indeed. It was one such gloomy evening in Gangtok when outside leaves of the peepel tree were fluttering in the rain ; while aimlessly rummaging my library I picked up "Manto Ki Badnaam Kahanian " .True to the miliue was the context of the book ,so once again I read the book and what appeal the most to me is the story Boo(smell) , which I will narrate subsequently . As the name suggest it contains lurid tales from the netherworld for which he was despised by the so called page three crowd (recently Punjabi University removed his stories from the curriculum of honours classes). But Manto is the master story teller about the denizens of the flip side of the society,, whose true portraiture of them and the underbelly of the society which is so near so dear but so distant is enough to shake your conscience . We all love that world where all are unpretentious and without the vestige of civility. In his salaciously titled stories like Khol Do, Kali Shalwar , Nangi Awazein , Shikari Aurtein , Thanda Gosht , Upper niche aur darmayan ,Boo ,Toba Tek Singh and Babu Gopi Nath etc.narrates the tales of those who are on the fringes of the society .They are so close to all of us and our alter ego that's why Randhir in boo has no remorse in sleeping with a lowely ghatan girl . In Babu Gopi Nath story Gopinath made no qualms in saying that '' baat asal main yeh hai kee main shuru se hi fakiron aur kanjaron ki sangat main raha hoon mujhe inse mohabbat ho gayee hai main inke bagair nahin reh sakta (The truth is that I have lived with fakirs and vegabonds. I love them and can't live without them) . Randi ka kotha aur Pir ka mazar bas do zagah hai jahan mujhe man ko sakoon milta hai , isliye ki in dono jagahon per farsh se arsh tak dhoka hi dhoka hota hai jo admi apne ko dhoka dena chahe uske liye is se achee zagah kya ho sakti hai (whorehouses and shrines are places where you get peace of mind and from top to bottom it;s all about deception .What better place can be for a person who want to decieve himself ? ) . In the mayhem of partition Isher singh and kulwant kaur of ''Thanda Gosht '' are sexual giants and specially kulwant kaur whom Manto describe as ;;-.kulwant kaur bhare bhare hath pair wali aurat thee chode chakle kulhe thul thul karnewale gosht se bharpur kuch bahut hi zyada udha hua seena tez ankhen uperi honth per surmuyee gubar thodi ki banawat se lagta tha bade dhadhale ki aurat hai !!!!(Kulwant kaur was a big women with generous hips fleshy thighs and unusually high breasts . Her eyes were sharp and bright and upper lip there was a faint bluish down . Her chin suggested great strength and resolution ) .In ecstasy she struck Isher Singh with a sword as she come to know of his sexcpade with the corpse !!!!
Boo or smell I consider as a summum bonum of Manto . In 'boo' Randhir who is feeling very lonely and It was a monsoon day leaves of peepal tree were fluttering in the rain .Randhir came out in the balcony and saw this ghatan girl who was hiding under the tamarind tree to save herself from the rain .Randhir was handsome , fair man and is very fond of christian girls . Hazel was one, who was staying next to him but had joined the women auxilliary force. Every morning while going to duty , she would tease him with her swagger and khaki cap which she put at a rakish angle on her military cut hair. He cleared his throat to draw ghatan's attention and signalled her to come up ;just to even up with Hazel. .It was the same monsoon day when peepal leaves were fluttering in the air. All night they clung to each other . It was a primordial smell from the body of ghatan girl which he recognise but could not describe it,, a strange smell so alluring but repellent . With every breath he took in,, that smell which is coming from every pore of her body from her arm pits her breasts her stomach her hair and it has entered into every fibre of his body and invaded his thoughts .It was without artificiality of perfume but pure and real .it was as real and pure as the story of relation of man and woman . Randhir hated the smell of sweat.It was amazing he kissed the girl's hairy arm pits and was not at all disgusted , but rather found this surprisingly pleasurable. 
It was a monsoon day just like today when Randhir had only one teak bed in his room , now there was another one with a dressing table . Sharp aroma of henna hung in the air . His beautiful wife who was fair skinned and beautiful and laying next to him . from her naked body sharp scent of henna is wafting and her body is as soft as dough mixed with butter and milk ,, but Randhir could barely tolerate this noxious gut wrenching acidic smell which comes with acidic burps .He could not get over from that raw smell which he smelled from that ghatan girl's body . His newly married wife who is graduate and daughter of magistrate who was heart throb of thousands could not arouse passion in him , when outside peepal leaves were fluttering in the rain . 
It was a Bombay of 30-40s when industrialisation had just begun and a virtual El Dorado for thousands of mill workers who thronged its squalid chawls and slums with families back in villages . Manto wrote about them and raw human passion and he vividly brought out stories of prostitutes ,vegabonds, thieves, recluse and other left overs from the society . Manto was banned and he had to face the trial for obscenity. A maverick genius who migrated to Pakistan and died there due to excessive drinking at the age of 42 .